North of Tokyo, and surrounded by extensive woodland, is the shrine complex of Nikko. The elegant Taiyuin-Byo Shrine uniquely combines the shrine and temple architecture of the Momayama Era.

The Futarasan Shrine lies opposite, almost hidden within the hills and forests which, particularly in autumn, enchant with a blaze of vivid colour. The first Tokugawa-Shogun, Ieyasu, left precise regulations for his burial. As both an incarnation of a Buddhist and Shinto deity, the powerful ruler wanted to protect his empire even in death. ..continues