Close to what is, for Hindus and Buddhists, the sacred Mount Kailash, is the Brahmaputra River in Tibet, where it is known as Jarlung Tsangpo. At its source in Bangladesh it is called, Jamuna, and from its confluence within a tributary of the Ganges Padma, from where it is renamed, Meghna, it flows into the sea.

Our journey begins in the port of Gaibandha where the tracks of the railroad end. During the dry season, it is out of service due to the lowering of the water level by seven metres. Due to the railroad, Gaibandha has become an important traffic junction which provides a modest income for the region’s workers, rickshaw drivers and boatmen. The morning mist that has delayed our journey continues to gradually dissolve and it is now time weigh anchor. There are nine of us on board: five passengers, our guide Titu, a deckhand, the captain and a cook. Villages are often miles away from the fields due to the river which constantly alters the country’s topography. This often forces the farmers to grow rice some way from their villages and consequently makes it necessary to transport it long distances.

Because in the rainy season the water level of the rivers rises sharply, a large part of the country becomes flooded and therefore, in the rainy season, the local inhabitants raise the sand terraces for their homes, which demand constant attention. To make the new layer of sand more stable, it is covered with a layer of clay which is found in the hollows.

While waiting for the mist to clear, the boat people pass the time by eating food and washing their clothes. Close by, pilgrims are also waiting to return home. They have visited the tomb of a Sufi saint, as well as a three-day religious festival. They are now perhaps tired of celebrating, but not too tired to sing another song for us!

While travelling on the Brahmaputra there is much to discover along its shores. “Salam alleikum“ and farewell to what has been a truly colourful adventure!