On the windy plateaus of western Tibet, near Lake Manasarovar, is probably the holiest place in Central Asia of four religions. For over wo thousand years it has been the destination of many pilgrims, such as the Bon, followers of a shamanic pre-Buddhist religion in Tibet, the Hindus, the Jainists, and first and foremost, the Tantric Buddhists. It was they who built the first monasteries here, which serve not only religious functions but also as resting places for passing pilgrims.

For the Kora, the journey around the Kailash, we have rented three yaks and a horse. In the summer months hundreds of pilgrims set off daily, mostly Indians or Tibetans, who come from far away provinces, such as Kham and Amdo.

Below the pass is the Siwatshai Cemetery, a very macabre place. Here the pilgrims pretend to die and then five minutes later are reborn without sin, as a unique round trip of the Kailash is supposed to erase the sins of life.

After a steep climb, we finally reach the pass at five thousand six hundred and thirty metres. The gods are offered Lungtas, prayers printed on paper, and of course also flags of various colours whose positive energy contained in the printed mantras flows slowly through both wind and weather into the universe. Also we, as good Catholics, leave a Khata, a silk scarf, which has been blessed by the Dalai Lama himself.

It’s the last day of our round trip of the holy mountain. Who knows how many times our yaks have had to go around the Kailash. Surely they have earned Nirvana, or at least a rebirth as Supreme Lama!